My requirements would be pretty straightforward: hard to find; tropical; beautiful beach; plenty to do (and eat!); and disconnected from the rest of the world.
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| Photo: https://tomzap.com/FLIGHTplayas_AM.html It's safe to say I've found it hidden off the southern coast of Oaxaca, Mexico at the Lagunas de Chacahua National Park. To be fair, Chacahua wouldn't be for everyone. It comes with a level of isolation which people could either find lonely, or wonderful. But if you're looking for peace, nature and beauty you'll find it here. Hard To FindBut getting to Chacahua takes some commitment. You aren't going to stumble upon it by accident, and that's one of the best parts. If you're like me, and don't mind putting in a little effort to wind up somewhere amazing, you'll find it's worth it. And once you get there, you'll both understand and be shocked why crowds of tourists can't be bothered to go. There are SO many beaches in Mexico that are easier to get to than Chacahua, yet none are as unique. And the best part? You aren't going to find your basic, all inclusive resort tourists anywhere near Chacahua. Call me a snob, but that's a major perk.  Truthfully, I got lucky with this expedition. Since I went with friends on the annual surf music trip, I was able to tag along and didn't have to really research how to get there. It took time, but it wasn't too hard! I travelled by plane (to Mexico City), bus (to Zapotolito) and boat (to Chacahua). |
There are a few ways to access the island, and if you're coming from outside of Mexico, they all involve travelling by land, sea and air.
Chacahua is located about two hours north of the popular surf town, Puerto Escondido and from there, you need to get to Zapotolito.
I flew into Mexico City to visit friends, and that was where our chartered bus departed from. The bus ride from Mexico City into Oaxaca to the small fishing village of Zapotalito took about 14 hours. It was a scenic but stomach churning trip up around the mountains, including Popocatépetl which is a very active volcano. Some motion sickness meds definitely helped to alleviate that!
You can also take a daily flight directly into Puerto Escondido from Mexico City followed by a dusty taxi drive. Alternately, the cheaper option is to take a bus fairly close, and then a quick taxi or catch a ride on the back of a pickup truck. Once you reach Zapotolito, small motorized boats will shuttle you across the lagoon and onto the island.
Tropical
When you arrive, take a deep breath. The first thing I noticed was how clean and fresh the air was. Even the cabanas were adobe, made with straw, palm leaves, mud and little else. Situated on an eco-reserve, the park boasts 10 different types of vegetation, including swampland; mangrove; savannah; palm trees and more. Chacahua also has 246 species of flowers, 163 species of birds and 189 species of animals. It feels so rare to find places nearly untouched by man and where nature takes precedence.
You realize right away you're somewhere pretty special surrounded by jungle as soon as you're whipping through the lagoon from Zapotolito. Since Chacahua is nestled in between the Pacific ocean and the lagoon, it gives a sense of seclusion which is why I quickly decided this could be my go-to if I ever had to run away and fake my own death, or something equally dramatic. Or even just a go-to anytime I want a break from the hustle of the world.
Lagunas de Chacahua is an ecological reserve, and can be visited on the mainland side of Chacahua. There's a crocodile sanctuary with hundreds of crocs, plus heaps more outside of the sanctuary and in the lagoons. You can even swim with them if you are brave (I'm not!) as the guides insist the crocs dislike the taste of humans.
Beautiful Beach
One of the best parts of Chacahua is THE BEACH! And since the majority of the island is beach, it's also where your accommodations are going to be. There are dozens of inexpensive cabanas and free spots to camp out, and most belong to the owners of the restaurants who are happy to provide covered space in exchange for your patronage to their restaurant.
Chacahua has about 10 miles of open beach along the shoreline, and it's easy to find spots completely to yourself. On one side of the island you have the Pacific Ocean at it's warmest point which is popular for surfers because of the waves and how big they can get. You may also share the surf with humpback whales, manta rays, dolphins and leatherback turtles who pass through here frequently. The beach is also the spot for three different species of turtle babies to make their way into the ocean during some of the quieter times of the year.
On the other side, you've got the lagoon which is where families will go because of the calm waters and no risk of undertow. You can also go snorkeling and scuba diving, and swim with manta rays if you're feeling brave. At night, the lagoon boasts one of natures most beautiful sights; bio-luminescent plankton, that makes the entire waters light up with bright blue bulbs.
I wish I could have gotten photos of the plankton lit up blue, but no camera could do it justice. In fact, there are very few photos at all in existence, mainly due to how difficult it is to capture. Even professional photographers spend hours trying to get the right light and exposure only to leave empty handed.
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| Photo: https://elsouvenir.com/bioluminiscencia-puerto-escondido-oaxaca/ |
You take a boat into the middle of the lagoon on a relatively moonless night and start stirring up the water. The moment the water is agitated, thousands of tiny LED looking lights start glowing. My friends ignored warnings of crocodiles and jumped into the water to swim as if they were in an underground rave. I wasn't so brave but still had a blast playing with the plankton from the boat.
We knew how hard it would be to take photos and didn't even bother trying. Without a lot of photographic evidence, the only thing I can really say is that this is truly something to be seen for yourself. It feels hard these days to not want to live stream every awesome thing we do - but sometimes you have to really live in the moment and take things in right then and there.
I don't care how many places you've travelled or how many things you've seen, there are few things are wonderful as this. And since Chacahua boasts bio luminescent plankton all year 'round, there is no bad time to go.
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| Photo: https://elsouvenir.com/bioluminiscencia-puerto-escondido-oaxaca/ |
Culture
People visit Chacahua from all over the world, but it's only really busy (ish) during holidays when Mexicans visit in droves, just like Torontonians to cottage country on long weekends. The actual population of Chacahua is 726 poeple, and home to many Indigenous people and African-Mexicans who founded Chacahua as runaway slaves in the late 16th century.
Once you arrive in Chacahua, you'll hear music that makes you feel more like you're in the Caribbean than Mexico. Spanish is spoken as a second language if at all, after indigenous languages.
People are warm, friendly and begin caring for the environment from childhood. During the day, locals will come around with offerings of inexpensive food, treats and even marijuana but no one will hassle or annoy you. The whole atmosphere is very laid back, and locals carry themselves as if they don't have a single worry in the world.
Because no one seems to have any cares or worries, this also translates to how people treat one another and speaks to the inclusive sense of belonging on the island. I spoke with some locals who said they felt comfortable and embraced for being openly LGBTQ and I observed people of all races feeling at home here. The common thread that binds everyone together here is the respect for nature and the environment, and as long as this code is followed everyone is welcome.
By day, the island is quiet, mostly filled with sounds of roosters and occasionally the loudspeaker making an announcement like what is being served for dinner at Inez's Restaurant. By night, there are plenty of quiet spots to be found but a walk along restaurant row will take you party hopping along the beach.
Chacahua is rural with rustic living and accommodations. There isn't a single police officer on the island and a local is quick to show me a cabana that is used as a temporary "drunk tank" that locals will take people if they get too unruly. I asked him how often it's used, and he said they have only used it twice in many years.
Luxury looks like mosquito nets, satellite TV and a fan to most here, but to me just being on an island where the only law is nature was paradise. Because of this, people are humble and appreciate their surroundings which shows through the care they take to preserve it.
If surfing isn't your thing, there still plenty to see and do. Locals are more than happy to help you set up a tour of the lagoons, take you bird watching, to the crocodile reserve, and more. There are also plenty of hammocks and places to relax and unwind if you want to nap, read, do some writing or even strum a guitar.
The group that I traveled with took advantage of setting up tours through the owners of the cabanas and restaurant where we were staying. We took a guided tour of the lighthouse that overlooks the island, a boat to a secluded area of the lagoon to go swimming, a sunset cruise and of course the cruise through the lagoon to experience the glowing plankton. We only scratched the surface in terms of things to do though; there's fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, tours of the mangrove tunnels, and of course the beach!
To be fair, if nature isn't your bag; you're going to get bored. It seems like every activity to do involves the environment (especially in the absence of technology!) but if a chance to unplug and connect with nature is what you need, you're going to get it and more here.
Plenty To Do...and Eat!
People are warm, friendly and begin caring for the environment from childhood. During the day, locals will come around with offerings of inexpensive food, treats and even marijuana but no one will hassle or annoy you. The whole atmosphere is very laid back, and locals carry themselves as if they don't have a single worry in the world.
Because no one seems to have any cares or worries, this also translates to how people treat one another and speaks to the inclusive sense of belonging on the island. I spoke with some locals who said they felt comfortable and embraced for being openly LGBTQ and I observed people of all races feeling at home here. The common thread that binds everyone together here is the respect for nature and the environment, and as long as this code is followed everyone is welcome.
Chacahua is rural with rustic living and accommodations. There isn't a single police officer on the island and a local is quick to show me a cabana that is used as a temporary "drunk tank" that locals will take people if they get too unruly. I asked him how often it's used, and he said they have only used it twice in many years.
Luxury looks like mosquito nets, satellite TV and a fan to most here, but to me just being on an island where the only law is nature was paradise. Because of this, people are humble and appreciate their surroundings which shows through the care they take to preserve it.
If surfing isn't your thing, there still plenty to see and do. Locals are more than happy to help you set up a tour of the lagoons, take you bird watching, to the crocodile reserve, and more. There are also plenty of hammocks and places to relax and unwind if you want to nap, read, do some writing or even strum a guitar.
The group that I traveled with took advantage of setting up tours through the owners of the cabanas and restaurant where we were staying. We took a guided tour of the lighthouse that overlooks the island, a boat to a secluded area of the lagoon to go swimming, a sunset cruise and of course the cruise through the lagoon to experience the glowing plankton. We only scratched the surface in terms of things to do though; there's fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, tours of the mangrove tunnels, and of course the beach!
To be fair, if nature isn't your bag; you're going to get bored. It seems like every activity to do involves the environment (especially in the absence of technology!) but if a chance to unplug and connect with nature is what you need, you're going to get it and more here.
There was also plenty to drink with delicious and cheap beer, homemade mezcal, and cocktails galore. I often had to remind myself to keep drinking water too, but bottles of water are always more expensive!
Peaceful and Disconnected From the Rest of the World
There is no phone signal or wifi on the island. Well, there is one shop that has a couple of connected computers but I've been told that when it works is hit or miss and that if it does work, it's painfully slow. There's a loudspeaker in the middle of the island to keep residents informed of things like deaths, upcoming storms, restaurant specials, etc. Aside from that, the rest of the world could be crumbling and you'd never know it.
This is probably the biggest deterrent or perk for visitors. I thought it would be hard to be so disconnected, but truthfully it wasn't. Once we arrived and began taking in the beauty, the need for Facebook and Instagram became lost. Especially when I realized there is no real way to sum up Chacahua digitally, I felt free to be present and just enjoy. Disconnecting was the best mental vacation I could take. I even realized how much I'd missed connecting with people in the absence of a cell phone's glow.
As the surf band Los Durisimos instructed us: what happens in Chacahua stays in Chacahua. Normally that's just a cheesy cliche, but without the ability to broadcast your shenanigans to the world, they really do stay here.
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