photo: Detail from Bathhouse Women by Torii Kiyonaga, 1752-1815. Library of Congress An older naked woman pops her head out of the door. "Chotto matte (wait a moment)" she says, and hurries back inside. When she returns, she's carrying two large ice cubes. She hands me one, and motions for me to put it in my mouth. Instantly, the cold startles my senses but cools down my body. She joins me in the hot spring and we are bathing side by side, silently looking up at the sky, sucking on the ice. It isn't until I'm bathing nude at a sento in Kyoto, that I feel accepted as a foreigner in Japan for the first time. I've chosen a plain looking sento, down a residential street called Hakusan-yu Rokujo-ten because it's close to Kyoto Station and tattoos are permitted. Most sentos, onsens, gyms or anywhere with communal bathing areas forbid people with tattoos from entering. And unless your art is small enough to cover with a bandage (or 6), you can forget abou...